Sonia’s Scottish Food Guide Part 1: Meat and Veggies
Want to try a bit of local flavour? I mean, what’s the point in going all this way just to eat the same stuff you’d find back home?
I found that Scottish cuisine generally falls under the category of: mutton (occasionally beef), seafood, grains (oats and barley), sugar, and whisky. Vegetable dishes are few and far between, but I’ve managed to find a few. Most of Scottish cuisine is designed to keep you as warm as possible in the winter - and can you blame them? So without further ado, let’s go through a few dishes and see where you can get them in the city.
Haggis
A hearty, traditional dish that uses as many parts of the sheep as possible, then cooks (and serves) them in the lining of the sheep’s stomach. Doesn’t sound too appetising, but the good news is, you don’t have to eat it the old-fashioned way. Most restaurants will have Haggis, neeps and tatties on offer (in the picture) - which is haggis with mashed turnips and potatoes, sometimes served with whisky sauce on the side. And trust me, there’s NOTHING better on a cold winter day. You can also try haggis bon bons - my personal fave - which is haggis fried in batter into crispy little balls, and then served with a chilli and whisky glaze. Yum.
The best haggis, neeps and tatties I’ve had in the city were in Howies (Victoria St & Waterloo Pl), Scott’s Kitchen (Victoria Terrace), and Makars Mash Bar (Bank Street). My go-to haggis bon-bon place is McGonnagalls on George IV Bridge, but they also serve them at Maison Bleue (Victoria St).
2. Steak Pie
Yes yes, I know that technically Scotch Pie is the more traditionally Scottish one - but I don’t find it as appealing. There’s nothing like a warming Steak and Ale Pie on an blustery Scottish winter day. They usually consist of tender slow-cooked beef and veg, baked in a pastry crust, served with ale gravy, mash and peas. But there are SO many variations - mutton (the original Scotch pie), chicken, leek, vegan pies and more. I don’t claim to be an expert on the topic, but for pies, my favourite has always been Greyfriars Bobby’s Bar. I’m sure plenty more places in the city do them though - so don’t be afraid to explore!
3. Scotch Broth
Aha - you’ve probably not heard of this one, eh? Well, since I’m Polish and soup is basically our holy water, I simply HAD to include my favourite, which was this hearty Scotch broth. The ingredient list is pretty simple but versatile - get your meat of choice (stewed or braised lamb, mutton or beef), cook it with lots of barley and veggies (carrots, turnips, peas, lentils, leeks). Basically the recipe for the perfect hearty winter stew. Funnily enough, the best scotch broth I’ve ever had was in the Redcoat Café in Edinburgh Castle - but if you find it anywhere else on the menu, it should be a safe choice if cosiness is what you’re after! It will also probably be cheaper than the steep £7.00 they’re currently charging for it at the Castle - ouch.
4. Stovies
I bet even less of you have heard of this one! Stovies is basically a dish designed to use up all the leftovers from a roast dinner. They’ll usually consist of a mix of mashed potatoes, onions, stewed meat (usually mutton or beef), and some veggies (do you see the similarities between the dishes now?). They’ll often be served with oatcakes to scoop the dish up. They’re a staple at Scottish weddings - I’ve had stovies at a wedding before and they were delicious (it’s an easy way to feed a lot of hungry -and drunk- guests). Unfortunately, they seem to have disappeared off most menus in the city (not restaurant-y enough, perhaps) - but be on the lookout for them! If nothing else, you can always try to make them yourself or, if you’re in Edinburgh during the Food Festival in August, head to George Square Gardens and see if any of the stalls will have them on offer - they usually do!
