Sonia’s Scottish Food Guide Part 2: Seafood
Personally - my sworn enemy. But if you don’t find the idea of eating sea bugs disgusting like myself, Scotland might just be your foodie paradise. Its proximity to seawater and vast amount of islands means that seafood is a staple in Scottish cuisine. So let’s get to it!
Cullen Skink
Starting off strong, with, would you believe, fish soup! Now, as a Pole, soup is sacred to me, but there are some things I draw the line at, and mixing soup with fish might just be my limit. However, if you’re not weird like me, I think you’ll genuinely like it. It’s a thick creamy concoction from smoked haddock, potatoes and onions. You’ll often find it as a starter at Scottish weddings, and the more North-West you go, the more of a menu staple it will be. In Edinburgh, there are thrre places I know of that make this soup - although I’m sure there are WAY more than that; this is just my personal experience. One is Howies on Victoria Street (and Waterloo Place), then its sister-restaurant, Scott’s Kitchen on Victoria Terrace, and last, a bit of a wild card, The Fishmarket in Newhaven, arguably the best view in town.
2. Fish and Chips
Okay, that one I don’t mind. It’s not actually Scottish as much as British, but I’ll include it anyway as you’ll find it all over town, and with Edinburgh’s access to the North Sea, you can get the haddock fresh from the ocean. The ingredient list is not long - battered haddock, chips and some peas to add a little bit of green. A true pub staple, usually served with lemon and vinegar on the side to season to your taste. In Edinburgh, the most iconic location to have it is Bertie’s Proper Fish And Chips on Victoria Street, but my personal favourite is The Fishmarket in Newhaven. Not only is it my neighbourhood, it also feels so far away from the world, and it’s only 5 minutes away from the end of the tram line. It offers amazing views of the lighthouse, the harbour and the river Forth, which makes it an especially inspired choice for summer sunsets. Don’t think - just go. But in winter, stick to Bertie’s.
3. Arbroath Smokies
A bit of a wild card - and, to be precise, not an Edinburgh dish, but a distinctly Scottish one. It’s nothing more than salted whole haddock, hot-smoked over a hardwood fire, giving it its characteristic golden-brown colour and a creamy, savoury taste. If smoked fish is your thing, this has to be on your list, along with the cullen skink. Fun fact: legally, the dish has to be produced within a five-mile radius of the town of Arbroath, making it one of the most location-specific delicacies to try on your trip. They do deliver them to various Fishmongers around Edinburgh, so if you’re staying in an Airbnb or fancy bringing some back home, you can definitely still get it! These include The Fishmarket in Newhaven, Welch Fishmongers right next door, G. Armstrong in Stockbridge and Something Fishy on Broughton Street. If you’re lucky, you may even find them on the menu of some of the restaurants in the next section.
4. Crab, oysters, mussels, squid, and everything else
I’m sorry guys, there’s only so much that I can look at (and write about) seafood without getting nauseous. So we’ll make this one quick - besides, these would all be found in the same seafood-specific restaurants around town. Edinburgh’s proximity to the North Sea makes seafood a delicacy that not a lot of people consider when coming here, but honestly, if this is your thing, I HIGHLY recommend checking out the following restaurants. Here we go, rapid fire:
White Horse Oyster & Seafood Bar (Canongate, Old Town)
Mussell Inn (Rose Street, New Town)
Fishers In The City (Thistle St, New Town)
Dulse Seafood & Wine (Constitution St, Leith)
And if you fancy something a bit more upscale - which will 100% require previous booking, just a heads-up- , I’d recommend Noto (Thistle St, New Town) or Heron (Henderson St, Leith).
